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 Post subject: Radiator fitment
 Post Posted: Fri Oct 25, 2013 11:45 am 
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Joined: Tue Nov 27, 2012 11:59 am
Posts: 384
Location: Sunshine Coast, Qld
The radiator mounts on the rear of the rear bulkhead and mounts generally top and bottom in rubber lined channel sections approx half the width of the radiator. Its is moumted as far to the right as possible and is general approx 400mm wide x 340mm high.

It is important that the radiator is rubber mounted.

The radiator we use and can supply is manufactured by PWR on the Gold Coast. They are a well known premium quality manufacturer who supply major race teams worldwide. Their unique feature is a very wide tube so most of their rads look quite wide like a three row but are in fact just single row. The success and reliability of the one on the prototype leads me to believe that the extra bucks you pay for Australian PWR quality is worth it.

An alternative is a early VW Polo unit that would seem to fit. Chinese versions of these are around for $300 - $400 new. Used ones are no doubt quite cheap if you can find one and maybe alright but the all alloy construction of the PWR and it's presumed superior performance might make the $600 odd you spend on one a wise move.

A quasi NACA duct needs to be made in the floor more or less as big as you can. Some breeze comes in through the sidepod but more is required and the floor duct works well and doesn't suck in anywhere as much crap as you would think. A small lip on the trailing edge helps drag in extra air at lower speeds. At one stage I had a spring loaded flap on the trailing edge that lowered about 20mm and made a huge difference when lowered.

Better photos coming soon when we fit the PWR in this particular chassis in about 2 weeks.

Regards, Andrew.

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 Post subject: Re: Radiator fitment
 Post Posted: Thu Oct 08, 2015 11:14 am 
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Joined: Tue Nov 27, 2012 11:59 am
Posts: 384
Location: Sunshine Coast, Qld
We have improved a number of aspects of the rad fitment. On the latest Gen2 chassis (TPC01012 onwards) we include top and bottom rad brackets and a shroud in the bulkhead making for a perfect and dead easy fitment (Gen2 builders don't so much build a car as bolt it together... ;) ). Also available and some of these parts can be used on gen 1s as pictured here are other rad baffle parts. 2 for the sidepod as pictured (RHS pictured) and 2 to seal of the underseat area.

The key ingredients for successful cooling on either Tri Pod 1 version is creating a high pressure zone in front of the radiator. To acheive this attend to the following -

1) Large duct in floor, preferably with a NACA style shape and inside duct.
2) Place some kind of scoop at the trailing edge of this duct for extra intake pressure at speed.
3) Seal off all around the radiator
4) Seal off under seat areas etc so the breeze coming in through the sidepod and floor duct will actually create a higher pressure zone.

Air naturally will pass through the area of least resistance. If you have a gap around one edge of your radiator or cut holes in your rear bulkhead the pressurized air will simply pass through that hole rather than the radiator - result - overheating.

You will need to fit a fan as well as when driving under 70KPH there is not significant airflow through the radiator without some fan powered assistance.

Make sure you don't have any air locks in your rad hoses. ie. Once you get your engine up to thermostat opening temp top up the coolant with the cap off and squeeze all the flexiable hoses.

The Firestorm prototype runs at around 80c - 84c on a 28c day with the scoop down (I'll try to remember to post a pic soon). It runs at around 102 - 105c on a 45c day with road surface temps around 55c with NO scoop. It has never over heated.

Every situation I have seen where a Tri Pod is running too hot is due to not following the basic design rules above. Including Jesses Bandit powered version where we foolishly turned up for brake testing in a warm day with no baffling underseat, no sidepod baffling, no fan and had not attempted to get any air out of the system. Guess what it eventually overheated.......

It doesn't anymore.

Regards, Andrew.



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 Post subject: Re: Radiator fitment
 Post Posted: Wed Jan 06, 2016 2:57 pm 
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Joined: Tue Nov 27, 2012 11:59 am
Posts: 384
Location: Sunshine Coast, Qld
The radiator baffling for the underseat area looks like this. Either rivnut and screw down with M5 rivnuts/screws or just rivet them into place. The upright ones lower edge needs to be bent slightly (laser cut slots allow this) for attaching to bottom rail of rear bulkhead frame.

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tpc_howto_123.jpg [ 230.83 KiB | Viewed 1451 times ]

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