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 Post Posted: Tue Jan 12, 2016 5:44 pm 
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Location: Sunshine Coast, Qld
Gen 2 sidepod fitment varies a little from the original chassis.

We made the chassis a couple of mm less tall along the sides so its now easier to get the sidepods on (not so ridiculously tight to get the lower edge slid on) but initially it may seem harder.

The reason for this is the 45 degree top tube is in fact a little higher at its leading end and does not allow the panel to sit on the top tube as low as you would like to allow the lower edge to slide over the bottom of the chassis. You can fix this issue buy trimming it as per the pictures.

I have actually 'over trimmed' at the trailing edges of the sidepod both at the upper and lower horizontal edges. The vertical face is still correct but could do with a small relief where the diagonal tube running from the top of the rear bulkhead presses up against it.

Gen2 chassis's also allow for front ventilation hence the gap between the 45 degree panel and the sidepod as per pic with three arrows. I have somewhat stuffed up the clearance on the vent panel where its meant to more or less meet the sidepod inside surface. The clearance is at least 10mm more than I thought it was going to be so a healthy thickness of dense foam strip will be required to seal it off and allow the adjustability of the slide up and down vent to work.

Feel free to ask questions. Regards, Andrew.

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 Post Posted: Sat Jan 23, 2016 4:28 pm 
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Location: Sunshine Coast, Qld
The bonnet should close nicely over the upper edge of the dash but it doesn't do that without a bit of cajoling.

There are a number of issues in play. One is bonnet alignment which is adjusted by the height and throw of the bonnet hinge 'tongues' and the lateral location to a much smaller degree by the built in 'slop' in the width of the tongues versus the bonnet hinge bracket glassed into the bonnet.

Below are some pics showing where the tongues and trailing lower edge and trailing upper edge of the bonnet should sit relative to the chassis.

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Below is the angle of the tongues that allowed the above positioning of the bonnet. The bonnet bracket was positioned in the centre of the tongues. Ie it was not spaced either to left or right leaving about a 10mm gap between end of the tongues and each side of the bracket.

The tongues need to droop down not poke up BTW.

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 Post Posted: Sat Jan 23, 2016 4:29 pm 
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That raggy looking end to the bonnet in the above pic needs to filed right back as per this pic -

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It will be re glassed to some degree in the next procedure.

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 Post Posted: Sat Jan 23, 2016 4:38 pm 
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So you get the positioning pretty right and you have attached the dash, and tweaked its vertical angle to suit the bonnet using a bracket something like this -

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But you still end up with this -

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Then its time to pull the bonnet and dash back off the vehicle and grab some resin, catalyst and mat and fix it.

The reality is that for some reason the bonnets come out of the mould slightly flat at that edge.

No one knows why, certainly the original plug did not look like that. We're working on it!

Its fairly easy to fix though. The bonnet I used was particularly stiff and didn't really want to bend much more so I cut a series of kerfs in it thinking that might help... I don't think it made any difference at all. Probably because it is a compound curved panel and in its self is quite stiff. So my suggestion is just tweak it up and re glass as per the pics. The question is how far to tweak. Obviously you want to over tweak it a bit as I am sure it will snap back to its original shape to some degree. I did the following. We'll see the results in 24 hours...

First I bent the panel at the edge that meets the top of the dash with a piece of bent flat bar and a couple of clamps. I also wedged a bit of 6mm steel under the middle as well.

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But I got this effect on one side -

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The other side was perfect. So I said stuff it, I'm going to do this properly and after a few minutes of swearing at various bodgy clamping arrangements i grabbed the drill. Hence the screws that are visible in the previous pic showing the flat bar.

You end up with a perfect curve as per -

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No to fibreglass it permanently to that shape. Or at least try to.

A stiffener/rib will be required. I cut and shaped one out of green foam (available at all proper firbreglass shops. BTW never buy resin etc at Bunnings, general hardware store etc. Its both too expensive and crap. Find your local fibreglasser. Don't worry if he doesn't seem to have a retail shopfront, he will sell you the materials if you ask nicely) and glued it in place with a hot glue gun. Perfect for this job and nothing thats meant to be permanent.

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Then I cut and layed a narrow section of 450 chop strand mat over the length of the stiffener and a second layer much larger as per the pic. Then as per no doubt many fine articles on the internet I wetted it out with an appropriate amount of poly resin.

Back tomorrow with the outcome (or Monday if I run out of energy tomorrow). ie don't get all excited and un bolt this set up too soon. You should probably wait a couple of days actually but as its summer I'll probably get away with it.

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 Post Posted: Mon Jan 25, 2016 1:54 pm 
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Having un bolted my 'tweaking' arrangements the bonnet sprang back a bit and unfortunately a smidge too much but as per the pics below I still have a dramatically better fitment than before and something I am happy with.

So maybe a 10mm spacer in the middle and a couple of 5mm spacers midway each side and bolt it up similarly and carefully to maintain an even curve.

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I noticed though that the bonnet was just touching the tank and the chassis immediately in front of the tank (on the outer left hand side) so I elongated the slots the bonnet tongues mount through and raised the pivot point about 5 or 6mm. Problem solved with now about 5mm clearance (I would probably put a little rubber foot or similar on the chassis at that point to save from vibes and scratching) but it just touches the filler neck now. The best fix is to now neatly cut the filler neck down as there is ample thread on my example. Your mileage will vary dependent upon filler neck height. This tank was not one we built in house and may have a longer neck than some.

I used some Plasticine on various points under the bonnet to see what the clearance was.

Remember also that once you put a rubber strip or similar under the edge of the bonnet on top of the lip on the dash the clearance will increase somewhat obviously.

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 Post Posted: Mon Feb 08, 2016 1:46 pm 
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Here is a bit of a pictorial guide of how the sidepod meets the seat panel and how to trim it. RHS pic coming soon.

The lip on the upper edge of the drivers side sidepod sits inboard the vertical face of the seat panel BTW.

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 Post Posted: Wed Mar 02, 2016 1:23 pm 
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IMPORTANT NOTE - I don't think I have mentioned that the dash panel does need to be upholstered and made "soft".

Usually a quite dense 10mm thickness of foam with black vinyl wrapped over it is the go.

Sample pics coming in due course.

Andrew.

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 Post Posted: Thu Mar 31, 2016 5:22 pm 
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The bonnet catch!!

Most donor bikes have a standard catch under the seat to enable easy access to the tool kit etc.

We use that with three laser cut, drilled and tapped ali plates as per the pic below. In theory you should have the largest already glassed into your bonnet, and in more or less the right place.

The donor bikes catch is bolted 'over" the medium sized piece of ali with the smaller piece of ali acting as the captivated nut part. Once assembled the catch and 2 pieces of ali (I'm sure there would be a more technical name that one could use) simply bolt into the bonnet as is fairly obvious from the attached pic.

This arrangement gives about plus and minus 10mm of adjustment to allow fine tuning of the matching between it and the other part of the bikes catch assembly that now needs to be mounted to the car adjacent to the fuel tank.

I would centralise the catch assy installed in the bonnet and tighten the screws stopping it from sliding about and 'plug' in the mating part of the catch. I would then place a quantity of plasticine or blutak or similar in the area its likely to match up with on the drivers side of the fuel tank and close the bonnet and therefore leaving some pretty obvious witness marks to then allow you to decide how to mount the catch. Early chassis had a piece of flat bar welded to the centre tube, G2 chassis have not. A simple piece of flatbar (5 - 6mm ali or steel) bolted via countersunk screws to the tube would surfice I think. There is a good chance one will be one of the catch mounting screws anyway. You will need to space the catch up with 10 odd washers and once the correct height is established make nice tidy spacers for the two catch mounting bolts.

This should all be done post getting the bonnet quite nicely aligned.

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Excuse garbage pic below. Inserted just to show which part bolts to car next to fuel tank.

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