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 Post Posted: Fri Jan 22, 2016 2:10 pm 
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Joined: Tue Nov 27, 2012 11:59 am
Posts: 384
Location: Sunshine Coast, Qld
Trick with the column is those pins are pressed in.

Probably best removed with a slide hammer maybe.

We used another method........ Cold chisel (small chipper variety)

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 Post Posted: Fri Jul 15, 2016 2:33 pm 
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Joined: Tue Nov 27, 2012 11:59 am
Posts: 384
Location: Sunshine Coast, Qld
Sometime ago we sourced a superior Sierra style steering uni joint. The news one are silver, conveniently the older ones black. There is a catch though with the new ones. They not only have much better bearings and zero slop but annoyingly they have a bit more meat around the bearings and this CAN create a mechanical binding when the steering column is mounted fully aft AND the rack is twisted slightly forward in its mounts.

I suggest a number of minor tweaks to make sure this isn't and won't become an issue with steering operation.

1) Grind a little material off the heel of the uni joint where the bearing is pressed in.
2) Twist your rack in its mounts slightly aft.
3) Maybe also machine a little material off the upper surface of the section of the joint around the spline.

This last step isn't really required but if you feel uncomfortable with the quite small clearance this is a way to make it larger.

Once everything is nipped up there is no way the rack can twist forward as the two steering column unis won't allow it to move either direction. Even if it did there will be just enough clearance if you grind a small amount of material away as suggested in point 1.

As with all things on the car (or any car) tension all bolts appropriately, check them twice, maybe mark the bolts that are fully tightened as you go with a paint pen in case you get interrupted.

Use nylocs! In theory they should only be done up once!

Below are a few pics to give you an idea what I am driving at.

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