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 Post Posted: Fri Nov 13, 2015 4:50 pm 
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Joined: Tue Nov 27, 2012 11:59 am
Posts: 384
Location: Sunshine Coast, Qld
Moving on to other stuff...

Next we need to get some plumbing happening. Brake fluid and fuel first.

Most chassis we have supplied have the holes already drilled in the frame tubes fo rthe plumbing to pass through and the recent hardlines supplied come with grommets.

Really just feed them through and screw them down. There is a bit of bending to do and of course you need to get them straight after shipping.

There are tools for straightening them but the are relatively expensive. I suggest uncoiling them (if they are coiled) along the floor. Put your foot on one end and hold it in place and just start uncoiling... Weirdly they come out almost straight. To get them even straighter bend them over a very slightly convex surface such as the bonnet of a Tri Pod! Always be careful to avoid kinking the pipe by holding it too tight with a tool of some kind. The best method is just to use your hands and the easiest way to do a neat bend is just to wrap it around a suitable form such as rattle can spray paint (about the smallest diameter that definitely wont cause a kink).

Using a blade screwdriver push the grommets into place. Screw down with whatever you have but plastic P clips aren't too bad.

Pics to come

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 Post Posted: Thu Nov 26, 2015 4:51 pm 
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Location: Sunshine Coast, Qld
And some pics -

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Supplied hard brake and clutch lines should have 4 grommets between the nuts ready to fit into the chassis tubes. One on each side of the tube. There are two tubes it runs through. Below the rear bulkhead and below the trailing edge of the fuel tank.

In the above photo I have only fitted one grommet on one side of the tube which is acceble in a 13mm hole with only a 5mm tube. The tube is supported by the grommet on the other side of the square tube (not visible in pic).

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 Post Posted: Sun Dec 27, 2015 2:18 pm 
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Joined: Tue Nov 27, 2012 11:59 am
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Location: Sunshine Coast, Qld
The attached pics are out of sequence re bolting down your pedal box. More to follow soon re positioning and mounting your pedals, reservoirs etc.

In the picture below the master cylinder with the hose loosely fitted is the front master cylinder. It of course should have two hoses fitted to it via a double banjo bolt. The LHS hose is not fitted yet as it was supplied with the wrong banjo fitting.......

The RHS hose should be 660mm long from banjo centre to banjo centre. As per second attached pic it is just long enough on full LH lock. Caliper pictured is VTR1000f in half waiting to have spacers fitted. Just checking clearance to disc etc. All good as per third and fourth pic.

Fifth pic shows weird banjo that wouldn't fit over standard 10mm banjo bolt...???

Back soon with considerably more instruction.

Andrew.

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 Post Posted: Wed Dec 30, 2015 2:56 pm 
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Joined: Wed Sep 02, 2015 3:25 pm
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Location: Leschenault Western Australia
Hi Andrew

any chance of some picks of how you and where you terminate the hard lines, both behind the "firewall", as well as under the bonnet / fuel tank.

Thanks
Mal


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 Post Posted: Fri Jan 01, 2016 10:58 am 
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Joined: Tue Nov 27, 2012 11:59 am
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Location: Sunshine Coast, Qld
Happy New Year to everybody BTW !!

Couple of pics here Mal but bizarrely could not find anything in my camera any more informative. Of course will get some when I get back to work tomorrow or the next day (or maybe even Monday if I am feeling lazy).

There is no absolutes really. I would get the distance right at the clutch master and rear brake caliper once you allow for the appropriate length of that braided line. The slack (excessive length if any) can be coiled up so to speak under the fuel tank. The lengths are pretty right though. Fuel line wise just leave enough to work with behind the rear bulkhead (I bend up at 66 degrees to match bulkhead angle up, as per pic below) and terminate (to flexibale hose) at front under the tank.

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The above shot is what you see under the fuel tank. Fuel lines not fitted yet. Pedal box to left of pic.

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You can just see 8mm fuel hardline poking up at an angle more or less against the bulkhead at bottom left of this pic.

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 Post Posted: Fri Jan 01, 2016 11:26 am 
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Location: North Carolina, USA
Happy New Year Andrew.

Build is coming along nicely, well done.

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 Post Posted: Sat Jan 02, 2016 10:26 am 
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Location: Sunshine Coast, Qld
Happy New Year to you too Budd.

Hows the build over there coming along?

March still looking good?

I hope so.

Andrew.

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 Post Posted: Sat Jan 02, 2016 2:16 pm 
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Hi Andrew, so far so good...having some funding problems causing delay,but should be resolved soon.

March is just around the bend.

Cheers

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 Post Posted: Mon Feb 15, 2016 1:25 pm 
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Joined: Wed Sep 02, 2015 3:25 pm
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Location: Leschenault Western Australia
Hi Andrew / All

I'm not sure if I have an issue with the way I have set up my pedal box.
When pressure is applied to the pedal initially, its first reaction is to twist through the "vertical axis" before any real pressure is applied to the pistons. I'm not sure if this is common occurrence, or just mine? Is it an issue?

Any thoughts anyone?

Regards
Mal


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 Post Posted: Mon Feb 15, 2016 3:01 pm 
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Joined: Sun Aug 23, 2015 12:56 pm
Posts: 78
Hi Mal
you need to wind in the adjusters to the centre without binding them up, you will see I think the rear brake push rod is not dead straight.
I hope that helps

Michael


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