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 Post subject: Engine cover fitment
 Post Posted: Thu Jan 14, 2016 2:26 pm 
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Joined: Tue Nov 27, 2012 11:59 am
Posts: 384
Location: Sunshine Coast, Qld
Here is my suggestion of how to attach the engine cover.

The right shouldered bolts are handy for this job and they look better than some daggy cap head screw (or a hex head that would be better used for bridge building or somesuch). The shoulder stops you from crushing the fibreglass and potentailly causing star cracks but I have just been bolting down the orange cars cover tight for years now and it hasn't stared...???

I'm suggesting rubber bobbin style mounts at the front and rivnuts at the rear. All M6.

The bolts should be available off your wreck. They are often used to hold the fairing on.

I would suggest getting the rear square with the inside of the lip up against the bottom edge of the bracket and clamping it in place. Make sure it is also centrally located. Eye ball it from behind and make sure it looks right. If it looks right it is right (old Chinese saying that they often apply to metalurgy...).

Transfer drill the holes in the rear of the cover by drilling through from the inside of the engine bay through the engine cover bracket. Un clamp the cover, fit the rivnuts and screw the cover in place. You will need the fibreglass seat panel in place, trimmed and sitting as it will when screwed in. Shim the front lower edge of the cover up a bit to allow for upholstery etc to fit between the seat and the cover. You will notice at this point that there is a slight twist in the cover..... ie. the right corner will sit lower than the left. Somewhere along the line our plug or mould developed a twist and we didn't realise until it was too late. Apologies. Anyway mount one corner and then mark by drilling through the panel the other so the twist is taken out. Marking for the mounting of the first corner needs to be done carefully so you get the hole somewhere in the middle of the front face of the seat belt bracket.

The rubber mounting may or may not be an advantage re vibration and noise but the fact that they bend when you are tightening the screws up and allow the head of the screw to sit flush against the face of the cover is nice.

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 Post subject: Re: Engine cover fitment
 Post Posted: Sat Jan 16, 2016 12:31 pm 
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Joined: Tue Nov 27, 2012 11:59 am
Posts: 384
Location: Sunshine Coast, Qld
You will also need to cut a slot for the seat belts to thread through and make and mount some kind of headrest trim panel.

Pics below give you an idea of how I did on this particular build.

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I used marine ply about 10mm thick and got it to this shape by using the ali passenger side headrest plate as a template and then cut to size with a circular saw and trimmed the corners with a jigsaw. In the pic above I am now attempting to mark the actual shape of the engine covers headrest moulded area on the back of this rough cut piece.

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Once trimmed to a more exact replica of the shape of the headrest 'pod' on the engine cover I drilled a series of holes (using the pass side plate as a template again) and then transfer drilled them into the engine cover. I then drilled the holes in the ply trim to 6.5mm which is a very snug fit for a M5 rivnut (hence hammer in shot) and then expanded the rivnuts which I am hoping will be a pretty permanent thread in the trim plate.

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It obviously slid around a bit while I was transfer drilling the holes so have had to oversize/slot a few in this pic to get the headrest trim to screw up ok onto the engine cover. You also need to create a seat belt slot. You may want to sit in the car and have an assistant measure the height or angle the belt take when slung over your should and hence where you need the slot cut into the engine cover. I reckon the height is between 100mm and 140mm above the top of the seat panel at the front of the cover. I'll come back to you with a finished shot soon and we'll see. You should also cut a vertical 1mm cut off wheel sized slot to slide the seatbelts out of the cover allowing full removal of it from the vehicle. I then make up a backing piece that a 4 screws bolt into to maintain some structural integrity in the front of the lid. Pics coming...

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This is what you should end up with. Cutting the trim plate a bit undersize to allow for the thickness of the fabric you upholster it with is the go. Foam should be quite dense and probably 25mm thick. Screws are M5 cap head stainless 16mm long with a decent size washer under their heads to avoid pulling through the glass.

You can of course make the same sort of thing for the passenger side but its quite a bit easier due to the more symmetrical size of the headrest plate. Use countersunk screws to hold the trim panel on as supplied hopefully with the kit.

Have fun!

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